The first time I went to Ludlow it was not to visit its now famous food festival but in pursuit of a snail. English snails, I had heard, were being served by a French chef in one of the Shropshire town's restaurants. I set off from London to investigate, accompanied by a colleague, New York born and bred, who could not hide her bewilderment. "We're driving off to the middle of nowhere, to eat snails?" she said. "It'll be lovely," I said. "Everyone says that Ludlow's very pretty and it is the 'food capital' of England, you know." |
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