The Red Fort in Soho, rebuilt after last year's fire, offers a pioneering mix of British produce and subcontinental flavours.
Imagine if all British dishes were known as "gravy". Cauliflower cheese gravy, jellied eels gravy, Lancashire hotpot gravy – the menu at the gastropub would be headed "gravies" and under that would be everything from pork chops and apple sauce gravy to devilled kidney gravy, or lamb chops and mint sauce gravy.
If you have read this far, you will have noticed that it becomes really irritating after a while. And meaningless, as if knowing that the meal is "wet" tells you anything about it at all.